Blood Orange Polenta Cake

January 27, 2016 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Are you a rule follower or a risk taker? In life I go by the book more than I should – I find myself teetering on the edge of a new adventure looking for reasons to step back; thinking of all the ways my plan could go awry when there’s no guarantee of success. A twist on the New Year’s Resolution I learned of recently is to choose a word – something like Family, Balance, or Health – and orienting your choices to support that goal. I’d like to dedicate this year to being Fearless.

I think that’s why I like cooking so much – even a misstep that ends in disaster is still a chance to learn. An under-baked loaf of bread, a pork tenderloin that is starting to burn but still hasn’t come up 140 internally, caramels that didn’t solidify and started to ooze on the plate. Frustrating? Sure. But, at worst they end up in the trash and I start again, at best they’re salvageable and end up as part of a funny story, which was the case the first time I made this cake.

No back up plan for our New Year’s Eve dessert just some homemade whipped cream to dress up a dry and relatively flavorless crumb despite plenty of butter and eggs. What happened?! I give our guests credit for pretending they liked it, but I could tell those were sympathy bites. Sorry, Joyce & Alex!

I loved the idea though and the cover photo on Citrus: Sweet and Savory Sun-Kissed Recipes by Valerie Aikman-Smith and Victoria Pearson was so beautiful, I had to go back to the drawing board. I went seeking guidance from no fewer than five other similar recipes the result: the cake I was actually dreaming of – rounds of glistening oranges, not too sweet, tender, and deeply citrusy. Totally worth the effort.

Blood Orange Polenta Cake (serves 6-8)

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups sugar, divided
1/4 cup water
2 navel or Valencia oranges
2 blood oranges
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup fine polenta
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 tablespoon orange zest

Instructions:
Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Prepare a 9-inch solid cake pan or pie plate by brushing the bottom and sides generously with 2 tablespoons softened butter. Set aside.

In a medium sauce pan, combine 1/2 cup of the sugar and water and cook over medium high heat. Swirl the pan to help the sugar to dissolve without stirring. Boil for about 5 minutes until the syrup turns a light golden brown, 360 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat and pour into the buttered pie plate to evenly cover the bottom.

Slice the oranges about 1/8 inch thick. Remove any seeds and arrange the slices in overlapping circles over the cooled syrup. Remember, the cake will be inverted later so the bottom layer of oranges will be the top of the cake. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir together the all purpose flour, polenta, and baking powder. In a separate large mixing bowl, beat together the remaining sticks of room temperature butter and 1 cup of sugar on medium speed for about 5 minutes or until light and creamy. Decrease the speed to low and add the eggs one at a time mixing well in between. Lastly, mix in the orange zest.

Add the polenta and flour mixture to the wet ingredients a little at a time mixing on low speed until almost combined. Scrape down the bowl in between additions, and finish mixing gently by hand with a rubber spatula to ensure the dry ingredients are completely integrated, but the cake isn’t over mixed.

Spread the batter over the orange slices and bake at 350 degrees F. for 45-50 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool for 15 minutes.

Run a knife around the edge of the cake to loosen before placing a large serving platter on top. Hold the two dishes together using oven mitts and invert the cake onto the platter. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve with whipped cream.

Re-written and adapted from Orange and Rosemary Polenta Cake (pg. 75) in Citrus: Sweet and Savory Sun-Kissed Recipes by Valerie Aikman-Smith and Victoria Pearson.

I received a promotional copy of this book via Blogging for Books, all opinions are my own.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes! I used, small sauce pan, candy thermometer, 9 inch pie plate (or solid cake pan), medium cutting board, utility knife, two medium mixing bowls, a hand mixer, rubber spatula, microplane zester, measuring cups and spoons.

The Verdict:
If I were being entirely scientific the taste testers would have followed the metamorphosis of this cake through its various iterations culminating in the final gorgeous version. Instead, my parents were the beneficiaries when I baked the cake that finally delivered on it’s orangey, bright promise. I knew it was a hit when my mother passed up a bakery chocolate cake in favor of this one. I hope it has a similar effect when you make it too!

Fleur de Sel Caramels

December 23, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Fleur de Sel Caramel | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Fleur de Sel Caramel** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Perfect Dinner Party”

The Set-up: Ina is creating a special but low-stress dinner party menu.

The Menu: Bay Scallop Gratin, Fleur de Sel Caramels, White Chocolate Bark

0:22 – Ina’s philosophy on dinner parties is that the host and hostess actually have fun, preferably while maintaining a thin veneer of effortlessness. Entertaining Pro Tip #1: go with no-cook appetizers, a make ahead entrée, and grown-up candy for dessert.

1:17 – I’ve noticed a bit of a theme here: gratin + candy = simple party. Totally works for me!

2:29 – Ina’s starting with Fleur de Sel Caramels which involves melting sugar until it turns, you guessed it: caramel colored.

3:04 – She warned us that when the warm cream and butter were added to the hot sugar it would bubble up violently, but seriously. That’s pretty scary!

4:51 – Pro Tip: Don’t forget the vanilla extract! Also, use a candy thermometer and keep a sharp eye on the caramel while it cooks.

5:22 – Entertaining Pro Tip #2: keep the party moving (literally) by having the courses in different places, which keeps things casual. Her table as usual is beautifully set.

6:33 – The caramel has cooled in the pan, now it’s time to form the candies by rolling each half up and then cutting the log into pieces. I wonder if you could just use a narrower pan to get a thicker layer and skip the rolling?

9:28 – Onward to candy number two: White Chocolate Bark. Ina’s tirade against methods of tempering chocolate is pretty amazing. “Forget it, I hate them all!”

10:57 – “I don’t even have the patience to read the instructions let alone do it. Forget it.” Anyone else think “forget it” is Ina-speak for “f**k it”?

11:40 – It’s fascinating to see her cook essentially the same recipe three different times because instead of a double boiler like last week she’s using the microwave.

12:33 – With Ina’s dislike (hatred?) of tempering chocolate I wonder how she discovered this method?

13:28 – This version of chocolate bark calls for roasted walnuts, roughly chopped, apricots, and cranberries.

14:15 – It’s probably obvious, but good to note that the chocolate needs to be warm and soft in order for the fruit and nuts to adhere to the base.

15:51 – Ina’s really on a roll with flouting convention wondering aloud “who really cares about white wine with fish…? I drink whatever I like.” We agree for sure on white & rose in the summer, red in the winter. She’s obviously a genius.

16:09 – We’ve moved on to shopping for No-Cook Appetizers. App #1: shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, full stop. App #2: Fig halves wrapped in smoked prosciutto. App #3: Briny olives. Done and done.

19:34 – Moving on to the main course: Bay Scallop Gratin in individual gratin dishes.

20:46 – Ina shares some more words of wisdom on dinner parties – make just a few special things, no one has a better time just because you made ton of different dishes.

21:52 – This topping is a bit different from the creamier gratin we saw last week and it seems to be a little bit more Italian in flavor – garlic, prosciutto, Pernod.

22:33 – She still uses panko bread crumbs which I like the texture of; more little edges to brown and crisp.

26:20 – Party time has arrived and Ina has the drinks set up on the porch, and now it’s time to put the Fleur de Sel Caramels and White Chocolate Bark in silver serving bowls so they’re ready later.

27:11 – Out on the porch for the no-cook apps and glasses of white wine and Pellegrino, then the Bay Scallop Gratin goes in the oven.

28:45 – She really has this down to a science. While the gratins bake and the guests are occupied with drinks Ina is in the kitchen setting up the coffee maker, slicing bread for dinner, and mixing a quick vinaigrette to go with the green salad.

29:58 – She’s such a pro. Everything looks gorgeous and elegant and everyone is laughing and talking. Perfect Dinner Party indeed.

Final Thoughts:
I have such a strong seafood dish = Pernod association that it's hard to imagine just drinking some. I wonder what it’s like in a cocktail?

Ina’s philosophy of dinner in three acts is a solid one. It does stink to be stuck at the table for hours, so her idea to have multiple locations is brilliant.

Ina said something truly shocking: she’s not a chocolate lover!? How? Why?!@

Lessons Learned:
I’m still getting the hang of working with sugar and I wouldn’t say that it’s in my comfort zone yet, but it’s been fascinating to experiment. Here’s what I learned from making Fleur de Sel Caramels….

Cooking – Is really nothing to be trifled with, the temperature of molten sugar is very, very high so it’s important to be extremely careful when handling it and have your oven mitts at the ready. Start the sugar/water mixture in a big, deep pot (bigger than seems really necessary) and use a smaller vessel for the cream. When the sugar is ready and has turned a color somewhere between maple syrup and wildflower honey, beautifully golden it’s time to add the hot cream mixture.

Do so very slowly and stir gently to avoid splashes. The caramel will bubble up and more than double in volume, so you’ll need the extra room.

Candy Thermometer – This is an essential tool and will help cook the caramel to your desired firmness. Cooking to Ina’s recommended temperature (248 degrees F) will result in soft pliable caramels, melt in your mouth and stretchy. If you’re looking for something a little firmer, then try cooking just a degree higher to 249 degrees F.

Prep & Timing – As with marshmallows, this is a recipe that rewards advance preparation. Do have the cream mixture measured and in the pan before you start cooking the sugar syrup. Do prepare the pan in advance and a trivet for cooling.

Battling the Sticky – A generous coating of non-stick spray and parchment are 1,000% required or risk losing your mind trying to get the caramel out of the pan.

Cooling & Shaping – I didn’t understand the need to roll the caramels so I used a 8 x 4 inch pan to get a thicker layer, no rolling required. I was also concerned about difficulty cutting the pieces, so I cooled to room temperature not in the refrigerator. Possibly a tactical error since the caramels were very soft and almost melty? I would cool in the fridge before cutting next time to make them a little more firm.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, amazingly. I used a 4 quart sauce pan, a 1 quart sauce pan, a liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons, a wooden spoon, and a heat proof pan. You’ll definitely need a candy thermometer and parchment paper. Non-stick spray will be helpful too, even though the recipe doesn’t call for it.

The Verdict:
If I had known how relatively easy it is to make Fleur de Sel Caramels I might have done so sooner. But, on the other hand with great power comes great responsibility and I’m not entirely sure I can be trusted with something so addictively delicious just yet. Sweet, of course, but these caramels are also gloriously creamy and rich with that necessary salty topping making them just that much more difficult to resist. You should definitely make them for everyone you know and let people think you’re some kind of culinary genius.

Winter Woodland Gingerbread Cookies

December 20, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Woodland Gingerbread Cookies | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Woodland Gingerbread Cookies** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

When I was growing up my siblings and I would spend most of the afternoon on Christmas Eve rolling dough and making cutout cookies. My sister and I traded off who used the rolling pin to prepare a new patch of dough while my brother plotted his next move – would it be the evergreen tree, the star, maybe the random chicken shaped cutter (an old-fashioned tin one with a red painted handle) that we insisted on using despite it’s non existent connection to the holiday at hand? My mother mainly left us to our own devices, occasionally taking a pass through the room to check on our progress.

We continued that tradition every year up until a year or so ago when we began spending holidays with our respective in-laws, and now I’m continuing in my own way. Much to my father’s chagrin we were dedicated to plain sugar cookies when I was a kid, but I’ve since realized the error in judgment and have turned my attention to these spicy, gingery cookies chewy with molasses and dark brown sugar.

The cookies are wonderful plain - complex with plenty of cinnamon, ginger and cloves – but a light layer of icing makes them festive and transforms some of my brown bears and foxes into their arctic cousins. Plus, who can resist snowy vanilla frosting or a sparkle of coarse sugar at Christmas?

Woodland Gingerbread Cookies (yield*: 50-60 medium cookies)

Ingredients:
6 cups all purpose flour, plus more for work surface
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
4 teaspoons ground ginger
4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
1 cup packed dark-brown sugar
2 large eggs at room temperature
1 cup unsulfured molasses
Vanilla Icing (recipe below)
Decorative sugar (I used Sugar in the Raw Organic Cane)

Instructions:
Whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, spices and salt in a large bowl and set aside.

In a separate large mixing bowl (or in the bowl of a stand mixer) beat butter and brown sugar together with an electric hand mixer until fluffy. Add in one egg at a time and then the molasses until well combined. (A light coating of non-stick spray inside the liquid measuring cup will make pouring the molasses much easier.)

Slowly add in the flour mixture, mixing on low until just combined. The dough should still have streaks of flour and look a little dusty. Finish mixing by hand making sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. The texture will be quite sticky and almost fluffy.

Divide dough into thirds pat each portion into a flat disk about 1 inch thick and wrap each in plastic. Refrigerate until cold and firm, about one hour or up to two days.

When ready to bake, pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F and line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface to a 1/4-inch thick. Even after chilling, the dough will remain semi-soft and pliable, and the cookies will puff up and spread slightly when baked, so cutters with minimal fine detail are best.

Cut into shapes of your choice and place 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets. Gather the scraps and re-roll until all the dough is used.

Refrigerate the cut cookies again for about 15 minutes. Bake cookies until crisp but not dark, 12 to 14 minutes. Place the baking sheets on wire racks and cool.

Allow the cookie sheets to return to room temperature before placing the next batch of cut cookies.

When the cookies are cool, decorate with icing and sprinkles. Once the icing is set, store cookies between layers of parchment or waxed paper in an airtight container for up to a week.

*Yield Notes: 50 medium/large cookies (moose, reindeer, fawns, bears, foxes), 22 small cookies (hedgehogs, squirrels)

Rewritten and slightly adapted from Smitten Kitchen’s Spicy Gingerbread Cookies a version of Martha Stewart’s Gingerbread Snowflakes

Vanilla Icing (yield: about 2 1/2 cups icing)

Ingredients:
6 cups confectioner’s sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 teaspoons light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1/2 cup, plus 1 tablespoon skim milk
Food coloring (optional)

Instructions:
In a large mixing bowl, sift the confectioner’s sugar through a fine mesh sieve to remove any lumps. Next add the vanilla extract, corn syrup, salt, and food coloring, if using.

Pour in 1/4 cup of the skim milk and mix on low speed with an electric hand mixer. Consistency will be very thick. Add remaining milk 1-2 teaspoons at a time until the icing reaches your desired consistency. Thicker if you plan to spread with a knife or spatula, a bit thinner if you plan to pipe.

When the cookies are cool, ice with a piping bag or small offset spatula. Sprinkle with decorative sugars.

Adapted from Bon Appetit’s icing as described in New England Molasses Gingerbread Cookies.

Decoration Ideas
I did a combination of all over sugar, piping, full icing, and full icing + sugar for the truly hummingbird inclined. This had the dual effect of giving me the appearance of both arctic animals and creatures from more temperate climates. The icing recipe described above was enough to do about half with full icing, if you want every cookie to be fully covered I'd double it.

If you’d like to achieve the un-iced, all-over sugar effect place an even layer of white granulated sugar or sanding sugar in a plate. Lightly press the top of the un-baked cookie into the sugar and then chill and bake as usual.

Some hints on piping the outline, which I learned from watching cookie artist Patti Page on an episode of Barefoot Contessa. (some of her work) Rather than touching the tip of the piping bag to the cookie, instead hover the piping bag just above the surface letting the strand of icing fall onto the cookie and moving the piping bag along slowly (maintaining even pressure), so that the strand of icing drags behind just slightly. To adjust your position, turn a corner, or catch the details, tap the point down. Think connect the dots except you’re creating both the dot and the line between with the icing. You can watch her demonstrate here.

This is also useful if you’re looking for sharp icing edges. Pipe the outline first let it set a bit, then fill in the middle with an offset spatula or more piped icing. More coloring book than connect the dots.

Edited to Add: If you're looking for the specific cookie cutters I used the Drommar set from Ikea (via Amazon) and these two additional fawn and reindeer cutters by R&M (also via Amazon.)

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Potentially, with strict organization. The tricky part is during the baking/cooling stage. Do this in batches over the course of a day if you have to. For equipment I used two large mixing bowls, an electric hand mixer, rubber spatula, mixing spoon, liquid and dry measuring cups to mix the dough. You’ll also cookie cutters (or use biscuit cutters, the rim of a glass, any shape that appeals) need two rimmed baking sheets, wire cooling racks (or an elevated trivet), parchment paper, and plastic wrap.

For the icing I washed and reuse one of the large bowls, the electric hand mixer, measuring cups. Add in a sieve and an offset spatula, or piping bag set. Toothpicks will help with fine detail work.

The Verdict:
This is everything I could hope for in a gingerbread cookie and has more than earned its place in my Christmas cookie line-up. Spiciness that holds it's own against even the heaviest layer of icing, texture that miraculously balances the tricky tipping point between chewy and crisp. They filled the apartment with Christmas-y warmth only holiday baking and crazy whimsical cookie cutouts can. Yes, I probably spent more time than is healthy decorating, but that's half the fun, right? Definitely make these and watch them fly off the platter, that is if anyone can stand to eat something so adorable.

French Chocolate Bark

December 17, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Episode: “Festive Fun”

The Set-up: Ina and Jeffrey are having friends over for a pre-holiday celebration and christening the barn with its first dinner party.

The Menu: Seafood Gratin, French Chocolate Bark, Mulled Wine, Pumpkin Mousse

0:18 – Ina says everyone gets so busy preparing for the holidays that we forget to actually have fun. Preach!

1:20 – First up, she’s making Pumpkin Mousse instead of pumpkin pie although so far the ingredients seem to be the same.

2:31 – Ina says she’s not really a fan of pumpkin pie calling it “cloying and sweet”, which would be a treasonous statement to another audience, but sound spot on to be. Apple pie #FTW

3:09 – Home-Ec Ina says that she only needs the yolks for this mousse, so an egg-white omelet is on the menu for lunch.

4:42 – Another recipe calling for gelatin, but thanks to my marshmallow adventure I’m no longer intimidated!

5:13 – I’m honestly not fond of pumpkin-centric baked goods, but Ina is so good at “layered flavor” (who else would think to put a mashed banana into a pumpkin mousse?) I could almost be convinced.

6:29 – The pumpkin mousse is in the fridge, Ina says you could make it up to 3-4 days in advance, now it’s time to go shopping!

7:34 – First stop: a giant bunch of mixed evergreens from Michael the Florist TM who is decked out in his signature bright sweater (candy cane red). Then, onto the Seafood Shop for ingredients in the Seafood Gratin.

10:28 – Moving on the main course and Ina has designed this menu to be special and festive for company, but also something she can make in advance. Music to everyone’s ears.

11:45 – The seafood will cook in a fish stock based broth with cream, tomato and white wine, yum! Pro Tip #1: To make the shrimp bite sized while retaining the shape, cut them in half lengthwise.

12:06 – Oooh, tricky. Since some of the fish is cooked (the lobster) and some of it isn’t, Ina is cooking each ingredient separately and then lifting it out of the stock when it’s done.

13:30 – Now that all the fish is cooked stock continues to simmer and will reduce into a sauce. Clever way to retain all the flavors…

14:54 – Onward to the vegetables which are sautéed in butter while Ina makes a panko bread crumb topping.

15:23 – Friends, this will come as no surprise, but we’re not dealing with a low-cal recipe here. Lots of butter, cream, and cheese went into the making of this gratin.

16:12 – Pro Tip #2: the butter in the gratin topping is for flavor, but also ensures that it browns.

17:48 – Interesting, I thought at some point that the cooked seafood, sauce and vegetables would all be stirred together, but instead they’re layered in a large baking dish and then topped with the bread crumbs.

21:17 – Next on the docket: French Chocolate Bark starting with a combination of bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate bricks. The two different kinds are meant to balance each other out.

22:21 – Ina is using toasted cashews, cranberries, and apricots, but she has also given us leave to top it with trail mix if that’s what suits you.

23:02 – Fun fact: American chocolate bark has the fruit and nuts mixed in, while French chocolate bark starts with a sheet of chocolate and is then topped with the ingredients so they’re more visible.

24:36 – Ina is not messing around with the chocolate bark either, she’s planning to use it in S’mores over coffee gathered around the outdoor brazier. Boom, gauntlet thrown.

25:05 – The table setting is in silver and taupe, because you know Ina probably isn’t going to rock red & green. She’s using large glass jars of lemons and clementines softened with some of her greenery from Michael the Florist TM and mercury glass votive holders. Gorgeous, naturally.

27:24 – Part of Ina’s strategy for the Mulled Wine is to serve it after dinner with the chocolate bark since it’s already on the sweet side, and it's a nice hot drink to have on a cold night.

28:50 – I honestly never knew what was in mulled wine but Ina is using a combination of sweet spices, apple cider, and a little honey. Sounds pretty good, actually.

29:49 – Dinner is served and everyone seems to be diving right in. Ina disappears to set up the s’mores tray and the mulled wine while her guests enjoy the fire. Looks like a blast – invite meeee! (please.)

Final Thoughts:
Add an outdoor brazier to my future home wish list.
s anyone else contemplating the thousands of different types of chocolate bark to make?
Just imagine if Ina had made her own marshmallows and the chocolate bark. Heads would explode.

Lessons Learned:
I’ve really been enjoying my starter candy course this month, and frankly this French Chocolate Bark, is even easier than the marshmallows I made last week, but I still managed to learn a few things along the way.

Double Boiler/Bain Marie – this really is the time to use a water bath to melt the chocolate. Nothing could be more tragic (okay, that’s an exaggeration) than ruining high quality chocolate by burning it. A double boiler allows you melt the chocolate through indirect heat and reduces the chances of a mishap due to inattention. Make sure the bowl is heat proof (ie. pyrex) and that the water doesn’t actually touch the bottom.

Advance Prep – The double benefit of using a water bath is that it allows you to get your other ingredients ready without stressing that your chocolate is charring. And, since the chocolate will cool and harden fairly quickly after it’s spread on the parchment it’s a good idea to have the toasted cashews and fruit ready before that step. Much less panic inducing….

Sweet & Salty – I realized as I was making this recipe that the cashews I had were toasted, but not salted. They’d still have worked and been quite good, but as we’ve discussed a balance of sweet and salty is what makes a dessert really amazing. Hence, the break-glass-in-case-of-emergency use of the Maldon sea salt. A good trick to have in your back pocket and regular Kosher salt (used sparingly) could work in a pinch.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
100%. I used a medium Pyrex bowl, a medium sauce pan, a large cutting board, chef’s knife, and a rimmed baking sheet. Parchment paper is a must, and if you’re into precision then a ruler and a pencil to help mark the boundaries.

The Verdict:
I ask you, how bad could dark chocolate studded with tart cranberries, sweet musky apricots, and roasted cashews be? Add in a shower of coarse sea salt and this French Chocolate Bark could be your new favorite treat. It also would make a lovely gift for anyone who likes a decadent little something. I’m already plotting my next chocolate bark concoction – maybe spiced like Mexican Hot Chocolate or make use of those leftover starlight mints? What about crunchy pretzels? Candied ginger? Sky’s the limit!