Crispy Pork Schnitzel | Image: Laura Messersmith — Crispy Pork Schnitzel | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

I can only think of two occasions when I’ve eaten schnitzel in restaurants, but both were memorable. I’ll also admit that the first time I tried it I wasn’t overly impressed – it seemed a little heavy and not overly flavorful, but Mike won major points by ordering it in a restaurant on an early date just so I could try it, even though it was August and he probably would have preferred something else.

Not an especially auspicious beginning, but fast forward several years to our trip to Vienna last spring. Our Austrian friends confidently recommended dinner at Figlmüeller a restaurant famous for their schnitzel, and I figured there was no better time to try it again than in the heart of schnitzel territory. The schnitzel was in a word: glorious. Deeply flavorful, about the size of a medium thin-crust pizza, and perfectly accompanied by fresh lemons and a glass of gewürztraminer – the experience rekindled my interest in German food.

Brief nerdy side-note: wienerschnitzel is a protected term and means specifically schnitzel made with veal. The word schnitzel is broader and encompasses both pork and veal. Similar to say, Champagne vs. sparkling wine.

Crispy Pork Schnitzel (serves 4)

Ingredients:
4 (4-6 ounce) boneless pork loin chops
1 1/2 cups plain dry breadcrumbs
1 large egg
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon water
1/2 cup olive oil, divided
1 lemon, cut in wedges
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
kosher salt
ground black pepper

Instructions:
Trim the boneless pork loin chops of any fat before placing them between two large sheets of plastic wrap. Use a rolling pin or the flat side of a meat mallet to pound each piece until it’s about 1/4 inch thick. Generously sprinkle both sides of the pork with salt and pepper.

Measure out the flour and breadcrumbs onto two large plates. On a third large plate, carefully beat together the egg and water to create an egg wash. Dredge each piece of pork in the flour, followed by the egg wash and lastly the breadcrumbs. Gently press the breadcrumbs to help them adhere to the egg wash.

Place the breaded pork on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap and rest in the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes. This step will help the breadcrumbs to adhere and prevent them from falling off during the frying process. It also gives you a few minutes to clean up and start heating the oil – multi-tasking!

Next, pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees F. Heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Carefully place two pieces of breaded pork in the hot oil at a time. Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown and crispy. Remove the cooked schnitzel to another parchment lined baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while the second batch sautés.

Drain the cooked schnitzel on a paper towel briefly and serve immediately with lemon wedges and a sprinkle of parsley.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Fairly, assuming you have enough large plates. I used a rolling pin to flatten the pork loin chops, three dinner plates, two baking sheets, one medium sauté pan, a small cutting board, a chef’s knife, metal spatula, and both dry and liquid measuring cups and spoons. An instant read meat thermometer offers peace of mind.

The secret weapon of this recipe: clear plastic wrap. It turns your counter into another plate and prevents contaminating a clean. Second runner up: parchment paper. Makes clean up easy and helps keep the breading crispy in the oven.

The Verdict:
Mike and I both have German/Austrian blood, respectively, running in our veins, so maybe that’s why we liked this so much? But really, who doesn’t like tender meat in a crispy coating lightly dressed with lemon juice? Schnitzel is perfect with a simple arugula salad, and extra bonus: a short cooking time coupled with a breading process than can easily be done ahead of time means dinner can be on the table in well under an hour. Works for me!

St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith — **St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, Austria** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Mike and I decided to visit Austria in a somewhat roundabout way (no offense, I hope). We knew we wanted to go to Croatia – that was a definite – but there was a catch. Direct flights from the U.S. to Dubrovnik aren’t available and we would have to stop somewhere before continuing on to southern Croatia.

We chose Vienna as the lucky winner based on three factors: it is only about a 2 hour flight from Dubrovnik, neither of us had ever been there, and we heard very good things about the city. Decision made.

I’m here to tell you that the rumors are true. Vienna is a beautiful, stately city, as one would expect of the seat of the Habsburg Empire for hundreds of years. The elegant, formal touches of the royal court are everywhere in the architecture and the number of palaces, art collections, and cathedrals you can visit is amazing for a relatively small city. Salzburg is incredibly charming and the surrounding mountains and lakes are absolutely gorgeous. See the photo above - it doesn't look real, does it?

Vienna State Opera House | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Vienna State Opera House** | Image: Laura Messersmith

Since we only had a few days in Vienna and just one in Salzburg we needed to focus, so here’s what we did...

Stay:

Hotel Bristol Vienna is an old-school hotel in the best sense of the word. Multi-colored crystal chandeliers, brass fittings, and excellent service helped me channel my inner Habsburg duchess. Extra bonus: our room overlooked the Vienna State Opera House and with the windows open we could hear the strains of Madame Butterfly and Swan Lake. Lovely.

Vienna, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith — **Vienna, Austria** | Images: *Laura Messersmith*

See:

Albertina is a museum housed in a former palace and displays Duke Albert of Saxen-Teschen and Archduchess Marie Christine’s (sister of Marie Antoinette) collection of drawings, several Imperial staterooms, as well as modern additions to the collection of works. Notably, the Albrecht Durer “Young Hare” (1502) was on view and the detail is astounding. I’d recommend it, particularly if your time is limited, since the collection is a manageable size for an afternoon.

Imperial Treasury Vienna (aka The Kaiserliche Schatzkammer) is a great opportunity see the how the royal .001% lives and has some stunning examples of craftsman ship and artistry. My favorite was the royal hatbox. The Secular treasury has the expected jewels, crowns and, robes, while Ecclesiastical treasury surprised us with some rather spooky reliquaries. I’ll let you look that one up…

Spanish Riding School Imagine a traditional, American state fair horse ring if an Emperor designed it - chandeliers, statues, columns - and you’ll start to get an idea of the Spanish Riding School. The performance (see 8:00) is classical dressage - like ballet for equestrians - captivating and amazing for the graceful strength of the horses and riders.

Volksgarten, Vienna, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Volksgarten, Vienna, Austria** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Nachtmarkt Vienna A paradise for anyone who loves farmer’s markets, food stalls, and antiquing. We wandered through around lunchtime on a Saturday and enjoyed (attempting) to decipher the German signage and wading through the flood of locals out on a gorgeous spring day. Another excellent people watching opportunity.

Sound of Music Tour Two things - Salzburg should be a destination unto itself, and I have a love/tolerate relationship with tours. They’re helpful if time is limited, but then you’re on someone else’s schedule. That said, this one did allow us to make the most of our one day in the city, see 90% of the locations from one of my all time favorite movies, plus some breathtaking views of Alpine lakes and mountains. Pretty good work for just 10 hours.

Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Salzburg, Austria** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Dine:

Neni am Nachtmarkt Israeli/Middle Eastern food in Vienna? Sure, why not. Another excellent recommendation from our Viennese friends, Neni is right in the heart of the Nachtmarkt and served as a welcome oasis on our first jet-lagged day. Loved the couscous salad with chicken, pomegranate, and goat cheese.

Figlmüeller When in Wien one must have Wiener schnitzel. We were directed to Figlmüeller by some Viennese friends and they were 100% right. We shared a giant, beautifully crispy schnitzel and a mixed salad (greens, carrots, sauerkraut, and potato salad) dressed lightly in vinaigrette. Definitely make a reservation here!

Mayer am Pfarrplatz is a winery, restaurant, and wine garden all in one. It was too cool to sit in the garden, but the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant made us feel right at home. Try a flight of the winery’s whites and reds, and if there’s something called “Pie Plant Cake” (aka Rhubarb) on the dessert menu get that too.

Salzburg, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith — **Salzburg, Austria** | Images: *Laura Messersmith*

Sacher Café Vienna Vienna is known for its café culture, and this is a classic example. Sachertorte (chocolate cake) is the café’s namesake specialty, but we preferred the apfelstrudel (essentially apple pie.) Note of caution: ordering “coffee” in Austria seems to equal “double espresso.” A “café au lait” is more likely to approximate an American brewed drip coffee with steamed milk. Learned that one the hard way, twice!

Salzachgrill We didn’t set out to visit all the entire Hotel Sacher chain, but were lured in by the Sachergrill’s terrace. It overlooks the Salzach River and we had a relaxing lunch, did some people watching and sipped a local beer called Stiegl Lemon Radler and another local beverage called Almduddler (aka yodeling juice). I'm obsessed with both now.

Lake Leopoldskroner Weiher, Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Lake Leopoldskroner Weiher, Salzburg, Austria** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*