Scouting: Seattle

Seattle Skyline | Image: Laura Messersmith

Seattle Skyline | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mike and I love to travel together and last Tuesday we flew to Seattle to spend a whole week (!) exploring Seattle, Portland and the Oregon coast. I’ve been to thirty-six out of fifty U.S. states so far - the Great Plains/Rocky Mountains are proving elusive - but until this trip I had never been to the Pacific Northwest. I probably should be embarrassed to admit that most of what I knew came from Sleepless in Seattle, The Goonies, and vague memories of the Real World from waaay, waaay back in 1998. So, this was my chance to see some of these places for myself.

Vacations are great for a few reasons - change of pace, change of scenery, making new memories - but they also give me an excellent excuse to snoop out new places and shutterbug, which I did a lot of since photos will help us remember our favorite moments.

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

A few days isn’t nearly long enough to become really familiar with a new city, let alone expert, but these were my favorite spots from our trip; places I’d definitely want to revisit or would recommend to my friends. So, here goes with Part I: Seattle.

Pike Place Public Market – This one is obvious (I hope) but I really can’t emphasize how much I liked the market and one of the benefits of being on East Coast time is that we were there by 8am and got to see it come alive. At one fruit stand a vendor offered tastings of the half dozen locally grown pear varieties, and once I made my choice (Taylor Gold and Starkrimson) he helped me select specific pieces that would be ripe when we wanted to eat them. Now that’s the ideal way to buy fruit.

The Walrus & the Carpenter – One of my birthday presents was Renee Erickson’s cookbook (A Boat, A Whale, A Walrus) so I was really excited to go to the source and visit one of her restaurants. With that kind of build up I was bound to be disappointed, right? WRONG. The food, the drinks, and of course the Oysters (capital O since they’re the star of this show) are wonderful. Simple, elegant, delicious and served in a gorgeous setting by a talented staff. We pretty much didn’t want to leave ever.

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

Seattle Harbor | Image: Laura Messersmith

Seattle Harbor | Image: Laura Messersmith

Serious Pie & Biscuit – Doesn’t a biscuit-based breakfast sandwich sound like a great place to start the day? Honestly, just writing that makes me wish I had one of the fried green tomato sandwiches right now. The food is excellent and it’s practically on the way to the Space Needle, so there’s no excuse not to go!

Beecher’s Handmade Cheese – This shop is just across the street from the main market building and is an awesome spot to pick up a snack (cheese curds & crackers anyone?) or grab an excellent grilled cheese sandwich. Beecher’s also offers a lot in the way of entertainment/education since you can watch the cheese making process while you have lunch. Works for me.

Storyville Coffee – After a busy day of Space Needle-ing, and market walking (gum wall included, oh dear) we needed a pick-me up and no Seattle list would be complete without a coffee shop. Storyville is tucked away on an upper floor, but the stairs are worth it. The coffee is excellent and the baristas are really welcoming – no worries if you’re a caffeine novice.

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pike Place Market, Seattle | Image: Laura Messersmith

Seattle Harbor | Image: Laura Messersmith

Seattle Harbor | Image: Laura Messersmith


Gone Scouting: Fall Edition

Design: Laura Messersmith | Image Source: Vynsane

Design: Laura Messersmith | Image Source: Vynsane

Mike and I are traveling this week and I'm so excited for my first visit to the Pacific Northwest! We'll be working our way south from Seattle to Eugene via Portland and Astoria - the rain boots and jackets are packed, cameras are charged and we have tickets to the Ducks/Stanford football game in our hot little hands. I plan to revel in my inner, flannel-lined Goonie-ness as we scout this gorgeous part of the country. I can't wait to share some of our favorite discoveries with you when we get back! Until, then happy Halloween and remember, Goonies never say die!

 

 

Minty Fresh Scouting: Chicago Edition

Black Dog 2.jpg

How is it possible that Summer feels like it’s drawing to a close when we’ve just barely reached mid-August? It was down right chilly this morning on my walk with Maddie and I’m thinking seriously of making soup today – what’s that about?

But, you’ll be glad to know that I’m resisting this early onset autumn and persevering in my search for the Best Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream with not one, not two, but three (I am seeking help at the gym…) different ice cream samples during our trip to Chicago last weekend. Honestly, when I think of the Windy City’s cuisine my mind goes more to deep dish pizza or pretzels not so much ice cream, but I have to say I was impressed by all three of the fine establishments I visited. They’re collected here for your minty pleasure.

The Scientific Part:

The rules are the same and Mint Chocolate Chip is the name of the game. (A rapper I am not.) I’m judging based on five criteria - Flavor and then the four “Cs” - Color, Creaminess, Chips, and Charm.

In my ideal world I want a dash of kitsch with my high-quality ingredients, so my preference is for pale green ice cream with intense mint flavor and deep dark chocolate shavings. Yes, I realize that this doesn’t make them ‘chips’ per se, but then they’re more smoothly incorporated with the ice cream. I’m giving extra points for a whimsical setting or special experience – that’s the Charm part.

The scoop on the contestants:

Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith

Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith

Black Dog Gelato (Ukrainian Village/Chicago)

“Black Dog Gelato creates gourmet gelato and sorbets combining the artisanal process with inventive and intriguing flavors. Gelato is made fresh daily in small batches and begins with the simplest ingredients:  milk, cream, sugar, eggs, freshly toasted nuts, seasonal fruits, and quality chocolates.”

Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Bobtail Ice Cream (Lakeview/Chicago)

“Bobtail is the only Chicago company that makes truly homemade, hard-pack ice cream. We specialize in classic, seasonal and locally-inspired ice cream flavors… use[ing] only top-quality ingredients. Bobtail combines three generations of Wilcoxon family recipes and small-town ideals with fresh-energy and an urban touch!”

PS: The Chicago Tribune says “Bobtail” a slang term derived from the nickname of the handle on an old-fashioned soda fountain. Fun fact.

Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream (Geneva, IL)

The Graham’s site is a bit cagey on the details, but careful research across the Internet gleaned the following info and a revelation: it’s gelato! 

“Homemade. Hand dipped. The ultimate taste in fine chocolates. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients from around the globe, we combine taste with artistry to make our signature candies.”

After a gelato taste-testing trip to Italy, [owner Bob Untiedt] came home inspired to bring this creation to his customers. “Twenty-five years ago, when we started making gelato, it was just easier to say it was ice cream,” said Untiedt, who makes all varieties with a special gelato machine.  – BataviaSun.com

Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith

Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith

Black Dog’s Score:

Flavor – intensely minty flavor that built in intensity (5 of 5)

Color – the ideal shade of pale green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – beautifully smooth and creamy - this is gelato after all (5 of 5)

Chips – I hate to dock points on a technicality, but actually they were Oreos… (2 of 5)

Charm – cute shop, but it lacked a certain I-don’t-know-what (2 of 5)

Total Score: 19/25

Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Bobtail’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty and refreshing (4 of 5)

Color – a pale white, bummer (1 of 5)

Creaminess – dense and creamy, excellent texture (5 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate (4 of 5)

Charm – rocking an 1950s ice cream shop vibe in a way that tiptoes at the edge of kitsch (3 of 5)

Total Score: 17/25

Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith

Graham’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty would have loved a touch more cooling flavor (4 of 5)

Color – the perfect pale, Palm Beach green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – quite creamy and smooth I should have realized it was gelato… (4 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate – very similar to Bobtail (4 of 5)

Charm – old-fashioned, Wonka-style candy store + white Adirondack chairs for outdoor lounging (4 of 5)

Total Score: 22/25

Current Rankings:

For folks following these adventures at home, here are the current rankings of the ice creams and shops I’ve visited so far. Those top three spots are pretty hotly contested with representation from NYC, PA, and Chicagoland – see, no favoritism here!

1.     The Lands at Hillside Farms: 22/25

2.     Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream: 21/25

3.     Ample Hills Creamery: 20/25

4.     Black Dog Gelato: 19/25

5.     Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream: 18/25

6.     Bobtail Ice Cream: 17/25

7.     Cayuga Lake Creamery: 16/25

8.     Sundaes and Cones: 11/25

Scouting: Nantucket

"In the midst of waters," or "far away island" are the two suggested translations for Nantucket offered by Wikipedia, font of all random facts. It’s an Algonquin word - and now I want to quote Wayne’s World all day long, so there’s that, but really my point is that they were pretty spot-on with their description. As I mentioned before, Nantucket takes a little effort to get to, but once you’re there it feel like the rest of the world falls away.

Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith

In a continuing trend of all our spring travels (see also Croatia and Santa Barbara) we arrived about a week before everyone else just as the shops and restaurants were waking up from a long winter’s nap. If you’re not a fan of crowds mid-May is the perfect time to go – town was relatively quiet, the sun was warm, but not hot, the apple trees were in bloom, and the sea air mingled with the scent fresh mulch in the flowerbeds.

Nantucket Wine Festival | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket Wine Festival | Image: Laura Messersmith

Our visit was timed with the Nantucket Wine Festival, so much of our time was spent near the White Elephant Hotel, site of the festival, but I did have a chance to do a little scouting and a lot of “shutterbugging.” Of course I have recommendations for you – a mix of a few old favorites and some new discoveries. Here’s what we did:

See:

Nantucket Town is incredibly charming with whaling era cobblestone streets (wear flats!), a multitude of nautical themed weathervanes to take pictures of, and lots of little antique shops to snoop through. One of my favorites is an antique shop/gallery called Four Winds Craft Guild & Sylvia Antiques where I learned about (and actually got to meet!) David Lazarus, a really talented scrimshaw artist and oil painter.

Nantucket  | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket  | Image: Laura Messersmith

The Beach! There are lots of options for beach-going (Surfside, Brant Point, etc.) but my favorite is Madaket. It’s a long-ish, but not overly challenging bike ride from town and despite the island bus service I’ve never seen it crowded. The sand is wide and the view is gorgeous even on a chilly late spring day.

Cisco Brewery has a great patio, live music in the afternoons and is just a stone’s throw from Bartlett Farm. So, when you’re done sipping a locally brewed beer you can make a quick stop and pick up dinner.

‘Sconset Cliff Walk is utterly charming and gorgeous. Definitely plan a drive over to the east end of the island to see village and take a stroll up to the Sankaty Head Lighthouse.

Madaket Beach, Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith

Madaket Beach, Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith

Stay:

Cottage all the way! since we were traveling with a group it made sense to find a place with a little more space. This cottage on Crooked Lane was perfect. Quiet and peaceful but only a 10 minute bike to town. 

Nantucket Cottage | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket Cottage | Image: Laura Messersmith

Eat:

Dune was the location for our anniversary dinner and the one ‘fancy’ place on our itinerary, so standards were extra high. (No pressure.) Thankfully, the food was delicious – I loved the Pan Seared Halibut and Mike was really happy with the Grilled Steak with bok choy. I also have to give a shout out to my Bill Burr cocktail (if you like Dark N Stormys…) and to the Apple Cinnamon Donut  - so good. The setting is what I’d call ‘modern coastal,’ like being in a sleek beach house, and we were delighted with the service. We had a great time.

Nantucket Pasty Co. I followed my nose to this little shop and found a great, quick, hot breakfast. Read “pasty,” think “turnover” in both sweet and savory versions. We shared one ham, cheddar & rutabaga and one apple. Yum. The fillings were delicious and the pastry was buttery and flaky. An excellent option, especially when you don’t have a lot of time.

Nantucket  | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket  | Image: Laura Messersmith

Something Natural Nantucket is home to several excellent sandwich shops, but Something Natural - just outside of ‘town’ on Cliff Road - is my favorite. I love to stop here on the way to the beach (I always get turkey and cheddar on multigrain and a chocolate chip cookie) or set up camp at one of their picnic tables for lunch. Delicious!

Straight Wharf Fish Store is my new source for take-out, prepared seafood. We were hosting a dinner at our rental cottage, so I picked up New England clam chowder, crab cakes, and the biggest lobster rolls I’ve ever seen here. The SWFS staff were really helpful and our guests were really impressed with the food. Note: they are cash or check only! 

Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nantucket | Image: Laura Messersmith